Author: Kalpana Sunder
Ambalangoda on Sri Lanka’s western coast, a coastal town of fishermen, is where the last generation of artisan families are engaged in the making of masks from balsa- like Kaduru wood, carved and brilliantly lacquered in different hues, to produce striking effects.
Bloodthirsty faces with fangs and menacing teeth, bulging eyes and seven headed serpents, the masks displayed on the walls are brilliant pieces of art. From demons and gods and deities, to mythical birds and serpents these are brilliants works of art. The history of Sri Lankan masks actually dates as far back as the 15th century. Once the masks were used in pageants, processions and ceremonies and in dances, drama, and puppet shows; today most of them are lapped up as souvenirs of the country, by visiting tourists.
Kinds of Masks
Masks from Ambalangoda were used thousands of years ago, for a different purpose, for devil dancing or exorcism rituals arising from ancient belief in occult, in pre- Buddhist times. Villagers believed that these masks had healing and protective powers.
‘Kolams’ are stories mocking Sri Lankan colonial life , a mix of mime and dance with satirical dialogues. Long ago there were no theatres with lighting and audio systems. Kolams were performed on earthen mounds in paddy fields or on sandy beaches. The dances or kolams , which literally means masks, began to slowly fade with the advent of the movies in the 1950s.
The present-day kolam starts with a drum-beating narrator followed by dances by characters like the washerman, headman, king’s guard, soldiers and people of the village in Sri Lanka’s British colonial period. Raksha masks are used in the the final facet of the Kolam ritual, and they are a tribute to the Rakshasas, with 24 different forms. Some are like seven headed serpents others are mythical birds. This dance is mainly performed to show king Ravana and his demon race from the mythology of Ramayana.
‘Sanni’, or devil dancing masks are used in a type of exorcism ceremony and Raksha masks are used in festivals. It is believed that 18 physical and psychological diseases were caused by local demons, which are known as sanni in Sinhalese tradition. There is one for vomiting and stomach diseases, one for insanity and one for nightmares.
How they are made
The making of these masks is an elaborate process.The bark of a tree is stripped, and the trunk is then divided into workable pieces. The wood is smoke dried for a week in preparation, and then whittled down and hand carved, using traditional tools and then painted.
The artisan obeys ancient scriptures, which give stringent guidelines. They use tools like a cross cut saw,hand axe, various types of chisels, a ruler, a mallet, a whetstone and abrasive materials. At first, the outline of the mask is drawn on the wood and then they are kept by the fireplace for a few days for seasoning, so that insects do not attack it. Carving is done using the chisel, and then it is smoothened and painted with organic and mineral based pigments. Ears of the masks are made separately, and these are attached to the masks in the end.
Where to see masks being made
The Ambalangoda Mask Museum, with a museum, a workshop and a small library loaded with anthropological material on masked performances is a great place to get an insight into this ancient art. It belongs to the company Ariyapala & Sons, and showcases the efforts of a family to preserve the traditions of masks and dancing, over the course of five generations. Once treasured by museums and private collectors, mask carving is today a waning art, becoming a cottage industry focused on tourism. By buying a mask or two you are helping this craft survive.
You might also consider downloading the Tuktukrental Travel App. It features offline maps, offbeat recommendations and even helps fellow tuktuk-ers on the road connect for information or just a few post drive beers – or the local Sri Lankan arrack if you are feeling adventurous!
